「畑の個性を体現してこそグラン・ヴァン」という彼の信条そのもの。
華やかなアロマと緻密な果実に満ち溢れる『シャルロパン・スタイル』

アンリ・ジャイエの愛弟子としてよく知られているのが、かのエマニュエル・ルジェですが、同じくジャイエの志を受け継いだもう一人の教え子が、ジュヴレ・シャンベルタンに居を構える「フィリップ・シャルロパン」です。1976年に1.5haのささやかな畑とともに自身のドメーヌを設立。その後少しずつ畑を広げ、現在では25haの所有畑から35のアペラシオンのワインを手掛ける、ジュヴレ・シャンベルタンのみならず、ブルゴーニュを代表する造り手です。

8つのグランクリュを含むこの絢爛たるラインナップにふさわしく、彼のワインは華やかな果実とアロマに満ちています。低農薬管理の元で厳しく収量を抑えたブドウを用い、低温でのマセラシオン、無清澄・無濾過という過程を経て、濃い果実味が前面に出た、肉付きの良い作品を造り出しています。

「シャブリ 1er ボーロワ」は、スラン川左岸の丘の中腹に位置し、日当たりが良くブドウが良く熟す1級畑ボーロワの樹齢約50年のブドウ。タンクで発酵、600L樽(新樽30%)で19ヶ月熟成。熟れたモモやナシの果実味が豊かで華やか。ふくよかで厚みのあるスタイル。

PHILIPPE CHARLOPIN CHABLIS PREMIER CRU BEAUROY
フィリップ・シャルロパン シャブリ 1er ボーロワ
産地：フランス ブルゴーニュ シャブリ
原産地呼称：AOC. CHABLIS
ぶどう品種：シャルドネ 100%
アルコール度数：12.5%
味わい：白ワイン 辛口

ワインアドヴォケイト：91 ポイント
The Wine Advocate RP 91 Reviewed by: William Kelley Release Price: NA Drink Date: 2021 - 2031
Deeper and more incisive than Charlopin's Fourchaume, the 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Beauroy offers up notes of pear, lemon oil, nutmeg, iodine and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, ample and precise, it concludes with chalky grip.

One of Burgundy's larger-than-life personalities, Philippe Charlopin is a wealth of information on the past and present of the region. His long career has spanned a number of phases. Starting out retaining stems, he moved entirely to destemmed fruit under the influence of Henri Jayer, and today he's swung back to working with some whole clusters. Similarly, in the 1980s and 1990s, he used more and more new oak, until the tide turned ("when journalists decided they didn't like new oak anymore, I put the money I saved from my barrel order toward buying a new four-by-four," he jokes), and he now employs much more modest percentages of new wood, though its creamy patina does still mark these wines in their youth. There have been other evolutions too: elevage, for example, has gotten longer and longer; and in his large and commodious facilities behind Brochon's Super-U supermarket, Charlopin has the luxury of space to do what he wants, when he wants it. Consumer perceptions of these wines, at least in Anglophone markets, tend to be stuck around the year 2000: "extracted and oaky" is the refrain (whose wines weren't in the 1990s?), yet Charlopin has evolved. These are certainly rich, rather lusty expressions of red Burgundy, generous enough to confirm prejudices, but the reality is that times and methods have changed. There are some lovely cuvees in this extensive portfolio, and I hope my notes will guide readers to my favorites at every level. What's more, the brilliant 2019 vintage shows everything to advantage. Mischievous readers might consider inserting one or two of Charlopin's best into a blind tasting of wines from more chic producers just to see what happens. Published: Oct 01, 2021